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Small Hope Bay Lodge

Andros, Bahamas

4.8(136 reviews)

Family

Small Hope Bay Lodge is one of those places that generates either deep devotion or quiet puzzlement, and which camp you fall into depends almost entirely on whether you are there for the water. For divers it has few rivals in the Bahamas. The Andros Barrier Reef is far less dived than Cozumel or Belize, most of the lodge's 60-plus sites are within a ten-minute boat ride, and the walls drop into the Tongue of the Ocean, a trench more than 6,000 feet deep that starts right offshore. Blue holes, wrecks, caverns and a shark observation dive round out the weekly schedule. The bonefish flats are just as celebrated among fly fishers, and if either of those reasons resonates, everything else about the lodge falls into place.

Things to Know

No TV

Traveler Insights

Pros

+Minutes from the 124-mile Andros Barrier Reef, which the lodge bills as the third-largest in the world, with 60-plus dive sites: walls at the edge of the Tongue of the Ocean, blue holes, wrecks, caverns and a weekly shark observation dive
+Bonefishing on the Andros flats is the other headline act, with local guides who have fished these flats most of their lives, plus reef and deep-sea trips that come back with snapper, mahi and grouper the kitchen will cook for you
+The rate covers all meals and an open bar, plus kayaks, paddleboards, bikes, self-guided nature tours and a free introductory scuba or snorkel lesson, and the nightly 6 to 7pm cocktail hour comes with conch fritters the lodge calls the best in the Bahamas
+Genuinely unplugged: no TVs anywhere, no Wi-Fi in the cabins, and the lounge Wi-Fi switches off from 6:30 to 8:30pm so people actually talk over dinner, which regulars describe as the whole point
+Only 22 cabins (18 one-bedroom and 4 two-bedroom), hand-built in the 1960s from coral rock and Andros pine, so the family-style buffet dinners turn into a real social scene and staff know every guest by day one
+Unusually family-friendly for a dive lodge: free babysitting for ages 2 to 7 during dinner (6:00 to 8:45pm) in the Games Room, a free Discover Scuba course for kids 10 and up, and children 2 to 12 at $135 a night
+Cats and dogs are welcome for a one-time $25 cleaning fee, which almost no all-inclusive in the Caribbean allows
+Family-run since 1960 on Andros, the largest and least-touristed island in the Bahamas; the Birch family also founded the Androsia batik workshop in 1973, and its fabric is all over the cabins

Cons

−Cabins are rustic by design and some show their age: ceiling and standing fans, outdoor showers and handmade furniture rather than anything sleek, which disappoints guests who expect luxury at this price
−Air conditioning is a nightly surcharge on top of the all-inclusive rate, and the lodge does not publish the amount, so ask when you book if you run hot
−There is no swimming pool at all, just the beach and a hot tub on the sand, which surprises people who assume every all-inclusive has one
−Scuba is not included beyond the free intro lesson: a two-tank dive is $150, a single tank $125, and gear rental is extra, all before the 10 percent VAT
−Getting here means a connection: a small domestic flight from Nassau (Titan Air or Le Air) or a direct hop from Fort Lauderdale (Makers Air or Aztec Airways), and the lodge does not run airport transfers, so you take a taxi
−Cell signal is patchy across Andros and there is no Wi-Fi in the rooms, a real problem for anyone who has to stay reachable for work
−Beyond diving, fishing and the beach there is very little to do; the lodge's own FAQ says there are no nightclubs or casinos and evenings are the bar, the hot tub or a dive video
−The lodge closes for all of September and October, so it cannot be booked in peak hurricane season

The lodge itself is deliberately rustic. Its 22 beachfront cabins, 18 one-bedroom and 4 two-bedroom, were hand-built in the 1960s from coral rock and pine and are decorated with local art and Androsia batik. They have fans, outdoor showers and safes, with air conditioning available for a nightly surcharge. There are no TVs, no Wi-Fi in the rooms and no pool, though there is a hot tub on the beach. Meals are buffet-style and eaten family-style: a cooked-to-order breakfast with a daily Bahamian special, a sandwich and salad bar at lunch, and dinners with a soup, salads, Johnny bread and one seafood and one meat entree each night. The 6 to 7pm cocktail hour with conch fritters is the social anchor, and the Wi-Fi pause over dinner keeps it that way.

Small Hope makes sense for divers, fly fishers, snorkelers, families who want kids outdoors all day, and anyone who actively wants to put the phone down. It does not suit couples looking for a spa, multiple restaurants or polished rooms. The lodge publishes its own all-inclusive rates per person per night: $375 per adult from May 18 to December 15 and January 6 to February 15, $425 from February 16 to May 17 and over the holidays, $135 for children 2 to 12 and free under 2, plus 10 percent VAT, which puts two adults at roughly $825 to $935 a night. Diving is billed separately, so a dive-heavy week costs noticeably more than the headline rate. Plan around the September and October closure, and book the short Nassau or Fort Lauderdale flight to Andros Town early.

Common Questions

Do you need to be a certified diver to enjoy Small Hope Bay Lodge?

No, but diving is the main reason to go. Guests get a free Discover Scuba course off the dock in standing-depth water, and the dive center runs PADI and SSI courses from Open Water ($300) up. Non-divers can snorkel from shore, kayak, bike to an inland blue hole, fish or ride along on the dive boat at no charge.

Is the diving at Small Hope Bay really better than other Caribbean destinations?

For wall diving, many experienced divers say yes. The Andros Barrier Reef sees far less traffic than Cozumel or Belize, most sites are within ten minutes of the dock, and the walls fall into the Tongue of the Ocean. Divers who have done the Caribbean circuit tend to single out the blue holes and the shark observation dive as things they have not found elsewhere in the Bahamas. Boats go out at 9am and 2pm, and dives are scheduled the night before depending on weather.

How do you get to Small Hope Bay Lodge?

Most guests fly into Nassau and connect on a short domestic flight to Andros Town (Fresh Creek) with Titan Air or Le Air, or fly direct from Fort Lauderdale with Makers Air or Aztec Airways. The airport is about ten minutes from the lodge, and since the lodge does not run transfers you take one of the taxis waiting there. The lodge sometimes runs a Fly Free deal on the Nassau to Andros leg, so check its packages page before booking flights.

Is there Wi-Fi or TV at all?

There are no TVs anywhere on the property. Free Wi-Fi works in the lounge and the outside bar area, but not in the cabins, and the lodge switches it off during cocktail hour and dinner (6:30 to 8:30pm) to get people talking. Cell service on Andros is patchy, so if you must stay reachable, plan for it.

What is the bonefishing like?

Andros is widely regarded as one of the best bonefish destinations anywhere, and its huge flats see far less pressure than the busier Bahamian islands. The lodge works with local guides who are not live-in staff but are always nearby, and spin-casters are welcome alongside fly fishers. Winter (November through February) brings bigger fish into the shallows, though the lodge says it fishes well year-round.

When is Small Hope Bay Lodge open?

The lodge closes for all of September and October, the peak of hurricane season, and is open the rest of the year. High season runs February 16 to May 17 and December 16 to January 5; the rest of the open months are low season at a lower adult rate. Winter days can be breezy, with temperatures in the low 70s, so pack a light layer.

What's nearby

More things to do (5)

Bonefishing trip · excursion10 min drive · 3.0 mi
Captain Bill's Blue Hole (Blue Holes National Park) · nature25 min drive · 4.8 mi
Andros Barrier Reef snorkel and dive trip · excursion1 min walk · 0.1 mi
Andros Town (Fresh Creek) · town8 min drive · 2.5 mi
Staniard Creek · beach30 min drive · 9.6 mi

Amenities

Pets Allowed

Bicycle Rentals

Fishing

Babysitting

Diving

Snorkeling

Water Sports Rentals

Free Wi-Fi

Show 2 more amenities

Buffet Dining

Beach

Style & Rooms

Atmosphere

FamilyMid-Range

Room upgrades

VillasBeachfront Rooms

Seaweed & sargassum

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Google Reviews★ 4.8 · 136 reviews

Anna G.

a week ago

“Protect this place at all costs. This is the most special place we have ever stayed at and the service was exceptional beyond any 5-star resort we’ve been to. The staff anticipates your needs before you even have them and genuinely cares about you as...”

Ira K.

10 months ago

“Truly wonderful place. I chose to stay here because they provide tours to the West Side National Park, but there's so much more. It felt like a summer camp, where you have fun all day, and then chat with new friends during social gathering at the din...”

Hannah V.

a year ago

“I spent 5 days at Small Hope with a group of friends. This was a bit of a pricey investment for all of us. But I can say with absolute certainty that it was worth every penny. The staff is incredible. They were present and engaged and seemed to genui...”