Fonds Blancs and Baignoire de Joséphine catamaran trip

Out in the bay off Le François, far from any beach, the sea floor rises to white sand and the water drops to waist height. These shoals are the fonds blancs, and the best known, the Baignoire de Joséphine, lies between Îlet Oscar and Îlet Thierry. Legend says the Empress Joséphine bathed here; the duller story is a sand dredger of the same name.

The ritual is to stand in the shallows with a ti-punch or a planteur while the crew pass round cod accras, the rum baptism locals talk about. Most outings, by catamaran or motorboat from Le François or Le Robert, add a tour of the islets, snorkelling along the reef and a look at the Lesser Antillean iguanas on Îlet Chancel, and some serve a Creole lunch on an islet.

Mornings and the low season (May to June, September to November) are quieter. The shoals are fragile, so follow the crew's rules. Water shoes are worth packing, and something warm for the ride back.