Porto da Rua natural pools by jangada

Jangadeiros wait on the beach at Porto da Rua, the liveliest village on the Milagres coast, to sail people out on jangadas, the traditional wooden sailboats of the Northeast, to the natural pools off Praia do Toque next door, among the largest in the area. Each jangada takes up to four people and the outing lasts about three hours.

The tide drops a long way at Toque, so the coral is easy to see even without a mask, though a snorkel helps. Pick a low tide and check the forecast. Many pousadas along this coast keep their own jangada, so ask at reception first. Back ashore, the water off Porto da Rua is shallow enough at low tide to wade far out, and the beach restaurants face the sea.