Hoyo Claro

This is the do-it-yourself cenote: a clear, cold pool in the forest of La Altagracia province, on private land, with no facilities at all. Unless you have a very high-clearance SUV you leave the car on a gravel road beside the highway and walk about a mile of flat but bumpy dirt track, which rules out strollers and wheelchairs. Take water and sun protection for the walk.

A small entry fee is paid in pesos at the pool. A staircase leads down into the water, and a big tree trunk lies submerged in it for balancing on; people swim, snorkel and jump in. No tours go there, so it means a rental car or a taxi. Weekends bring Dominican families and loud music, while weekdays are quiet. It is wilder and less tidy than Hoyo Azul at Scape Park, with some litter around, but it costs a fraction of a park ticket.